Monday, December 10, 2007PENSIVE
Business Toolbox: Fish central
Wall Street Journal reporter rises early to look at fish
This was written by John Krich of the Wall Street Journal.
This is one hell of a way to work up an appetite.
Just before 5 a.m., when I should be enjoying every expensive minute and centimeter of my Tokyo hotel room (the word "room" used advisedly), I am instead navigating the dark alleys of the 250,000-square-meter Tsukiji Fish Market.
Barely awake and dodging one-man motorized cargo movers, fork lifts and handcarts -- the market is home to an estimated 20,000 vehicles in all -- I make my way past the rows and rows of fish wholesalers displaying their wares toward two frigid warehouse hangars beyond. (A market map is available, but in Japanese only.) There I find the two rooms that are the big draw, as evidenced by signs on the doors warning against unauthorized entry: the tuna rooms.
Unauthorized, I slip inside, staying alert to the sharp hooks of fishmongers, inspecting the slippery rows of giant carcasses -- and to the sharp-eyed auctioneers seeking a chance to enforce the rules against me.
Against me and the rest of the tourist trade, that is -- Tsukiji, transit point for 3,000 tons a day of the world's freshest seafood, in recent years has become a prime attraction for intrepid foodies. Thanks to a growing hunger for authentic culinary experiences, and books like "The Sushi Economy" and "The Fish Market at the Center of the World" highlighting the global dynamics of the fishing industry, this maze of marine bounty has found a place on Japan's tourist map.
With the number of curiosity seekers growing, an outright ban is being considered (and seems reasonable in light of the dangers). And the overcrowded market itself faces shutdown and relocation, probably in 2012, to a much larger and more modern facility about three kilometers away at Toyosu on Tokyo Bay -- though the move has generated controversy, most recently because the new site, formerly owned by Tokyo Gas Co., has been found to be contaminated with toxins that include arsenic.
But for now, here I am. And unlike the guided groups of Germans also moving furtively through the surreal expanse -- fish lined up like enormous silver bullets -- I'm not enduring these early-morning hardships just to witness the manic mumblings of auctioneers or to ponder the primacy of albacore in the Japanese way of life. I'm here to get my tongue around the world's closest-to-swimming sushi.
There are few restaurants anywhere in Asia that can boast lines out the door at just after dawn. But some of the 39 unheralded eateries allowed on Tsukiji's grounds can -- though they are as tough to find as they are to squeeze into, mostly housed in a row of barracks-like huts separated from the main action by dank loading docks.
These elbow-room-only establishments, about half of them sushi places, were founded to fuel market workers. They may be Asia's ultimate lunch counters, though most close well before normal lunch hours.
In the words of Dokoro Yamazaki, 85-year-old head of the Tsukiji Restaurants Association, "It's like eating in the back of the whole city's kitchen" -- or, more aptly, straight out of its refrigerator.
"We've got to be quick, cheap, delicious," he says. "As a place for fish professionals, we've got to live up to the image of absolute freshness." Wall Street Journal
Business Toolbox: Your customers' health?
Substitution can cause allergic reaction
A letter to the Fort Wayne Journal Gazette of Indiana
Thank you to The Journal Gazette and Indiana’s NewsCenter for their recent exposé on the bait-and-switch tactics at local restaurants.
While it may seem like nitpicking to the “fish is fish” crowd, it is deceptive at best and can be downright dangerous.
I am allergic to certain types of fish. Even a sliver of the wrong kind can make me violently ill. I rarely order fish at restaurants (even though I love it) for fear of what was described in the article, “A fish story on turkey day” (Nov. 22).
Jeff Hall’s lame explanation that zander is a better quality fish than walleye and can therefore be substituted without warning puts the public at risk and makes me wonder what other menu items are being “upgraded.” If someone did become ill after eating “walleye” and another species of fish had been substituted, his or her doctor would have incorrect information when alerting the restaurant community and their suppliers. That’s a dangerous game to play with public health.
Please just give me what I’m paying for, no more, no less. Consumers today have enough problems worrying that products they buy are not as advertised without being concerned about the local restaurant fare. Tina Dearing
Business Toolbox: The culinary stars
Europe's master chefs: Often seafood, small portions
Chefs eat out more than most of us, so where have they had their best meals of 2007?
Here are the picks of Europe's culinary masters, including Heston Blumenthal, Gordon Ramsay and Joel Robuchon. The picks are in alphabetical order to avoid the twin perils of pride and paranoia.
Tom Aikens (Tom Aikens): ``Arzak in San Sebastian. It's similar to El Bulli, but a bit more simple. I had grilled lobster with saffron and rosemary oil. It was simply done and tasted fresh and light. In London, I'd say the Wolseley. I can always get a table. My favorite dish is the Wiener schnitzel.''
Pascal Aussignac (Club Gascon): ``One-O-One in London. I like to have small dishes like that. It's a fish restaurant with a modern twist, which is unusual because most fish places in London are more classical than modern. I had a tartare of tuna with soft-shell crab tempura. The presentation was beautiful.''
Vineet Bhatia (Rasoi): ``In Bahrain, at La Fontaine museum of art. It's a beautiful location and the food was fantastic: French- influenced Middle Eastern cuisine. The dessert was a tamarind-and- tea creme brulee that worked very well. In London, I like Locanda Locatelli, Maze and Nobu.''
Heston Blumenthal (Fat Duck): ``Royal China. I went for lunch with my wife and kids and my mother and father after getting my OBE. The dim sum is great. Also, I remember having a fantastic night at Inopia in Barcelona with Ferran (Adria of El Bulli), his brother Albert (who owns Inopia) and friends. It was great.''
Claude Bosi (Hibiscus): ``I had my best meal at the Fat Duck. What I like is the evolution of some of the dishes and the flavors. I don't know why some people think it is weird. It is great cooking. Heston Blumenthal has a French background to his cooking, you can taste it. I love the quail jelly dish.''
Aiden Byrne (Dorchester Grill): ``Mine was in Bath Priory, down in Bath. It's a guy called Chris Horridge, who was with Raymond Blanc. He doesn't use butter or cream. You'd think the food wouldn't have that body but it is amazing.''
Eric Chavot (Capital): ``One-O-One. The restaurant's new look has given Pascal (Proyart) the energy to do his best. It was sublime. I had the king crab with lava rock salt. Beautiful. There was slow-cooked pork belly with scallops and onsen quail eggs cooked in a water bath. It's incredible.''
Sally Clarke (Clarke's): ``In a private house in Vaucluse, France. The cook was a young Englishwoman. She had prepared everything with ingredients from the best farmers' market I've been to. My best meal in a restaurant was at L'Atelier de Joel Robuchon in Paris. I always go there if I'm in Paris by myself.''
Richard Corrigan (Lindsay House): ``At Le Gavroche with my wife, Maria. When you're long in the tooth like me, you want to feel comfortable. Silvano (Giraldin, the maitre d') could serve me a pork pie with a pint of ale and I'd think it was the best meal. I also like Rowley Leigh's new place, Le Cafe Anglais.''
Anthony Demetre (Arbutus): ``I've had four great meals this year and they differ enormously in concept and style. In no particular order, Great Queen Street, Hibiscus, the Greenhouse and Cafe Anglais. They're great and will be around for many years to come because they offer London a breath of fresh air.''
Mark Edwards (Nobu): ``At Les P'tits Ventres de Terre, in La Roche sur Yon. It's a tiny brasserie-style restaurant and everything was served in little clay pots. It was fantastic. In London, I took Nobu (Nobuyuki Matsuhisa) to the Hart brothers' place (Barrafina) because he loves tapas. It was very good.''
Brett Graham (Ledbury): ``Pierre Gagnaire in Paris because there are always surprises. Some of the dishes are amazing. One was an oyster with semolina, pumpkin, foie gras and curry. Abalone sauteed in sake. Also Michel Bras, in Aubrac, France. I had two really strong meals in London this year, at Petrus and Hibiscus.''
Mark Hix (Scott's): ``The Viet Grill. When I go, I normally get something off the menu, a really nice dish. It's a hot pot with oxtail and beef tendons, with ginseng. There are thin slices of raw beef and watercress you dip in. In the East End, Viet Grill and Cay Tre are the most authentic Vietnamese.''
Philip Howard (Square): ``One of the most enjoyable dishes I had was at Theo Randall at the Intercontinental. It was a fish soup and it was just blinding. I went in late one night with my daughter and it was cracking. The restaurant I go to more than any other is the River Cafe. It's the most delicious food in London.''
Giorgio Locatelli (Locanda Locatelli): ``I don't eat out much in London. I live here in Locanda. One of my best meals was when my wife Plaxy cooked spare ribs. I have to chip in when she cooks Italian because she is English, very English. My other best meals were on holiday in Sicily at Da Vittorio, in Porto Palo.''
Shane Osborn (Pied a Terre): ``I had an excellent meal at Texture. It's a different style to what I've seen in London before. It's really original. I had a spectacular pigeon dish with sweet corn. The other place is the (Dorchester) Grill, under Aiden Byrne. A chicken starter was one of my best dishes of the year.''
Bruce Poole (Chez Bruce): ``Outside London was at the Old Spot, Wells. It's just beautiful, simple cooking. Ian Bates understands what he is doing. He's an old mucker of mine. Lovely grilled sardines. I had a good lunch at the Square last week. I also like Tapas Brindisa. I go there quite a bit.''
Gordon Ramsay (Gordon Ramsay): ``I've got three favorite London chefs: Jason (Atherton) at Maze -- he is the most amazing talent, his vibrant food is inspiring; Atul Kochhar at Benares -- he's the spice king, especially his chicken curry; Skye Gyngell at Petersham Nurseries. Her elegant seasonal cooking is wonderful.''
Joel Robuchon (L'Atelier de Joel Robuchon): ``My best meal of the year was in a Japanese restaurant called Kun, in Akasaka, Tokyo. I went there twice, especially to eat their fabulous Omelette et Risotto au Foie Gras.''
Michel Roux Jr. (Le Gavroche): ``I had a particularly memorable meal at Zuma. I go there several times a year, and Nobu, because I like that kind of food, but this was perfect. The other meal that stands out was at Gotham Bar & Grill in New York. The white-truffle risotto was so good, it didn't need the truffles.''
Marcus Wareing (Petrus): ``I'd have to say the Dorchester Grill. It's an inventive cuisine, unique to Aiden Byrne. Great flavors, great execution and he's taking risks. He served a turbot dish lightly cooked with chilled soup on the side. It's hard to get good fish dishes cooked well these days.''
Bryn Williams (Odette's): ``I'm just back from Guy Savoy in Paris. That was very good. The hospitality, the professionalism of the operation, it's very slick. Nothing's an effort. It's great food, classics with a lighter touch. In London, I've been to Atul Kochhar's place, Benares, and that was fantastic.'' Richard Vines, London food critic for Bloomberg News.
Tuesday, December 11, 2007
Business Toolbox: Your supply
Dungeness crab fishery in full swing
OAKLAND, Calif. -- Ten days after the fishing ban was lifted, crab season is finally under way for local fishermen. Fresh crab made it to the market and it was being sold fresh off the boat.
Fresh crab was a fast seller at Oakland's Jack London Square. At this crab season kick off, local crab was being sold off the boat, direct to the customer for the first time ever.
"I heard they were going to sell right off the boat so we figured we'd come and get some fresh crab," said one buyer.
This is one of the first hauls of local crab brought in since the ban was lifted almost two weeks ago. Half Moon Bay crab fisherman Duncan MacLean says the haul has been disappointing.
"It was about five to seven crab per trap and that's not good."
MacLean says last year the catch was about 20 male crab per trap. He acknowledges that crab fishing is cyclical; good some seasons; bad others. While not necessarily the reason for the poor fishing, the season was delayed by the oil spill from the Cosco Busan. A state mandated fishing ban was implemented while crab were tested for oil pollution.
"We look at them, but there is no oil sheen as they are coming off the crab. If they are oiled, it will show up on the belly."
MacLean says he's upset at what the spill did to the environment. But as a fisherman, the oil spill became one more hurdle in many he's had to face.
"In this business, you have to roll with the punches."
Bad weather has also delayed the season. Two Half Moon Bay crab fishermen were lost at sea last week in rough seas. Their bodies have not been found.
Crab buyers were searching for local crab at San Francisco's Fisherman's Wharf with no luck. Vendors say the crab there is coming from Eureka and Oregon. KGO, San Francisco
Business Toolbox: Marketing sustainability
Oregon pink shrimp get certification
This item also appeared in our Fish Wrap service.
PORTLAND Oregon pink shrimp has been formally certified as sustainably harvested.
The Marine Stewardship Council, based in London, declared that Oregon shrimp trawlers met their standards for responsible management and maintaining a sustainable fishery. That allows distributors to put the council's blue label on the product as a signal to consumers the product is ecologically safe.
It is the first shrimp fishery in the world to qualify for the council's blue label, which can be found on 1,000 product lines sold in 35 countries around the world, said Jim Humphreys, U.S. fisheries manager for the council.
Oregon pink shrimp joins Alaskan sablefish, Pacific halibut, Alaskan salmon and Alaskan crab as certified sustainable U.S. fisheries, Humphreys said. Pacific whiting, the primary ingredient of artificial crab, and Dungeness crab are being assessed for certification.
Humphreys said the Oregon pink shrimp fishery had made big strides in reducing bycatch, unwanted fish that are killed and thrown overboard, since adding a special grate to the trawl gear.
As a condition of certification, the council wants the fishery to better define its overall impacts on the ocean ecosystem, he added.
The fleet landed 20 million pounds of Oregon pink shrimp last year, which brought an average of 47 cents a pound. The tiny shrimp are primarily used in salads, and can be bought canned, frozen and fresh.
"This is an important accomplishment for our fishermen who harvest Oregon pink shrimp, and the Oregon Department of Fish and Wildlife, who manage this fishery," Brad Pettinger, director of the Oregon Trawl Commission, said in a statement.
"This achievement represents a significant step in identifying Oregon as a leader in sustainable resource management," Gov. Ted Kulongoski said in a statement. The Oregonian
Business Toolbox: Your supply
New rules will cut catch to improve the fishery
For many years, conservationists, supported by federal rule-making, believed that the best way to reduce overharvesting of many types of fish was to impose limits: on the size and number of fish that could be caught, and on the total number of days in any given year's harvest.
But those seemingly logical rules have caused great harm in the Gulf Coast to the red snapper they are supposed to protect, and to the fishermen who make their living by them.
Now, Environmental Defense, along with commercial fishing interests and other coastal businesses that depend on a healthy Gulf and robust fish stocks, says the time has come to adopt individual fishing quotas, a new and better model for ensuring a sustainable fishing industry.
(Individual quotas have been used in Alaska fisheries and are credited with ensuring catches off that state are certified as sustainable. In addition, in most cases where individual quotas have been instituted, fishermen make more money.)
Under the old model, the rules created a raft of unintended consequences without preventing overfishing.
Limits on the number of fish that could be hauled in on a single trip kept fisherman closer to shore so that they could make as many trips back and forth as quickly as possible.
They threw back a tremendous number of snapper that didn't meet size restrictions, but it was wasted effort because those fish were dead or dying. This "fish derby" was dangerous to the commercial fishermen and the recreational fishers with whom they were competing in shallower waters.
Rules limiting the number of days in a fishing season intensified the need for speed. The fish had to be brought in fast so that each fishing boat could get as much out of the ocean as possible during the prescribed fishing season. Meanwhile, the allowable number of fishing days continued to shrink as fishermen reached the annual quota earlier each year.
No fisherman had any incentive to limit his catch because if he didn't take the fish, one of his competitors would.
Over the past year, commercial fishers have been trying a new tack with the red snapper catch, with welcome success. An individual fishing quota, or IFQ, imposes a catch limit to the snapper fishery overall but no size or trip limits and then allocates a percentage of the total to individual fishing enterprises. IFQs can be traded, a feature that acts as a buyout system that reduces overcapitalization in the Gulf. Fewer boats equals bigger profits.
More important, IFQs end the need for speed fishing. And they permit year-round fishing so that fishermen no longer have to take their boats out in bad weather to maximize their take over the few days of the fishing season. Fishermen can fish in response to market pricing, maximizing their revenue. Also, IFQs reduce waste from catch-and-release practices that returned tons of size-limited dead fish to the sea.
Conservation efforts should never be undertaken without ongoing evaluation to ensure those efforts are achieving the intended effect. Old fishing limits might help rebuild depleted fish stocks but at a very high cost to Texas Gulf Coast fishermen. By contrast, the IFQ experiment with popular and tasty red snapper seems to have been working well for the fish and the fishermen. Houston Chronicle
Business Toolbox: Price
Price of halibut may go even higher
Think halibut is pretty expensive now? The price might climb even higher next year, when supply is expected to drop.
The scientific staff of the International Pacific Halibut Commission has recommended a catch limit of just over 59 million pounds for next season, a drop of 9 percent from this past season.
The six-member commission, which regulates halibut fisheries off the West Coast, British Columbia and Alaska, is scheduled to meet Jan. 15-18 in Portland, Ore., to make the final decision on catch limits.
The halibut fishery is expected to open in March and run until November. Anchorage Daily News
Wednesday, December 12, 2007
Business Toolbox: Your customers' health
Fish may help chronically depressed
PHILADELPHIA ― Bari Robinson has struggled with depression for years but just recently asked doctors for help.
"It's like a feeling of being down all the time, lackluster, no motivation," said Bari.
Anti-depressants are effective for many, but there can be unpleasant side effects. Now scientists are turning to a natural alternative, omega-3 fatty acids found in things like salmon, nuts, or supplements.
Fatty acid has been shown to be helpful for reducing the risk of several things including heart disease and Alzheimer's. It appears to work by lowering inflammation in the body, which has also been linked to depression.
"We know that inflammation in the body results in the increased synthesis of certain hormones like cortisol, and those have been associated with depression," said Psychiatrist David Mischoulon.
There's already some evidence that fish oil can help stabilize mood. Now researchers are testing two fatty acids on 300 people with severe depression.
"Perhaps by preventing inflammation they can also counteract any influences that cause depression," said Dr. Mischoulon.
Because of the test design Bari won't know until the end of the study if he's being given an omega-3 compound or a placebo pill. But he says whatever he's taking is working.
"Now I can wake up in the morning and say hey you know the day is not all that bad," said Bari.
It's estimated that about 15 percent of Americans are suffering with major depression, and it can be debilitating. Doctors say while the fatty acids look promising it could be years before it's recommended for depression. CBS 3, Philadelphia
Business Toolbox: Law and order
False priest nabbed because of seafood selection
Brian Rush was arrested this week for taking groceries from Gerrity’s store in West Pittston.
Rush pretended he was a priest and told store clerks to charge the items to St. Rocco’s Church. He got caught because the items he charged became more and more unusual four, two-pound packages of shrimp, Tastykake krimpets and floral arrangements. Not the kind of fare one would expect a priest to select
Now, he deserves a severe penance. The Citizens Voice, Pennsylvania
Business Toolbox: Your business associates
Sounded good - too good to be true
GLOUCESTER It all must have sounded so good to George Sterling.
A man claiming to be a big-shot Georgia deal maker with a plan to consolidate a string of independent seafood companies wanted to buy Sterling's business, Gloucester Seafood.
Sterling was 61 and after a life on the water he was ready to cash in. After selling the land and business he would still collect a paycheck for the next four years as a consultant during a transition period.
Sterling was a lifelong Gloucester resident he lived a mile from where he grew up and former county supervisor whose Gloucester Seafood plant sat on an acre on picturesque Aberdeen Creek off the York River.
Sterling, his friends, a family member and a commonwealth's attorney say, apparently never saw a con coming. It was a con that would quickly unravel and end up with lawyers sparring over the remaining scraps of a once-thriving seafood plant.
Three years later, Sterling is dead, the Georgia businessman, Clifton Odell Boyd Jr., ended up doing a short stretch behind bars and Sterling's estate is on the hook for nearly $1.2 million for failing to make any payments to a lender. Today, the Gloucester Seafood plant goes up for auction on the steps of the Gloucester County Courthouse to pay off a note Sterling co-signed.
It's a complex, cautionary tale illuminating the sub-prime commercial lending industry and the pitfalls of business deals consummated without sound legal advice.
In late 2003, Boyd had approached Sterling about buying Gloucester Seafood, according to court documents and people familiar with the business deal. Boyd, who is black, told Sterling he had money and connections in the financial world.
He was looking for businesses that were underachieving so he could buy them and make money off them. Boyd's business plan was to consolidate and revive seafood plants along the mid-Atlantic coast by winning government contracts weighted toward minority-owned businesses.
Boyd looked the part of a successful businessman, said Mike Sterling, George Sterling's 37-year-old son.
"On the surface at least it looked like he had adequate resources," Mike Sterling said. "Not every day in the seafood business a guy rolls up in a suit and a (GMC Yukon) and says, 'I have money.' That sounds like a good deal for a guy that's 60 years old standing on the back of a fish truck or crab truck in 90-degree heat. And that's my dad."
Hale Delavan, a Norfolk businessman who coincidentally bumped into Boyd during another business transaction involving a Richmond funeral home, saw Boyd's business plan. He thought it made sense, he said.
Boyd, who was later convicted in Gloucester Circuit Court of one count of obtaining real estate under false pretenses, said in a telephone interview that he is no con man. Boyd had formed a corporation, Viking Foods, to buy the stock in privately held Gloucester Seafood from Sterling.
On July 8, 2004, Boyd and Sterling co-signed a deed of trust from a Washington, D.C.-area commercial lender, Meadow Financial, for $380,000 at 18 percent interest. Boyd said he got the money from Meadow Financial and had paid off two banks that Sterling owed money to when Sterling asked for another $50,000. That request came after Sterling had seen an appraisal of the property that came in higher than expected, Boyd said.
"That left me in a position that I didn't have enough to pay the stock," Boyd said. Sterling "wanted the property back and I couldn't give it back to him because I had debt on it."
When the deal fell through, Boyd moved to Chesapeake where his parents live.
"The remaining money I kept and to be honest with you, Meadow Financial entrusted me to keep it," Boyd said.
Walter Jackson, a Gloucester appraiser and longtime friend of Sterling, said Sterling had been asking him questions about refinancing leading up to the deal.
"I knew something was up," Jackson said. After speaking with Boyd, who wanted Jackson to appraise the property, "I told George, 'Something's wrong here,'" Jackson said. "I just didn't feel good about it."
In September 2005, a month after Sterling died of cancer, Delavan reached an agreement with Sterling's estate to take over operation of Gloucester Seafood. The business was subsequently moved Delavan is still operating it and Sterling's estate never made a payment on the note, going into default.
By that time, Boyd was in Gloucester Circuit Court after being indicted on a litany of charges, including writing bad checks, forgery and obtaining money under false pretenses. He pleaded guilty to one count of fraud, according to court records. A judge handed down a 20-year prison sentence, but suspended it provided Boyd reimburses the Sterling estate $80,000.
Boyd maintains he never intended to defraud anyone.
"I didn't go into business to destroy it, I went into business to resurrect it," he said. Sterling "changed the deal. You can't change the deal at the 11th hour."
Nevertheless, Boyd missed his first payment to Sterling's estate; he said he was seven days late but there was no grace period. In February 2006, he was jailed briefly in the Atlanta area on a probation violation. But he was released when he came up with the money all $87,000 to pay off his debt to the Sterling estate.
Boyd is vague about the source of the money, saying he has a business partner who provided a portion of it.
Gloucester Commonwealth's Attorney Bob Hicks believes Sterling made one mistake.
"If he had gone to an attorney, they never would have let him sign the stuff he signed," Hicks said.
Mike Sterling thinks his dad trusted the people and companies involved in the deal. Those include, Boyd, Meadow Financial and a lawyer, George Shapiro, who represented Meadow Financial and also Boyd and Sterling, according to court documents.
Shapiro did not return phone calls seeking comment.
"Bad things can happen to good people and the day of placing trust in people when it's a sizable transaction is long gone," Mike Sterling said. "And now you have to be skeptical, unfortunately, because that's where society has steered us toward. Now a lot of verbal agreements and a handshake don't mean anything."
Mike Sterling is a financial planner in Raleigh, N.C., who advises clients on matters similar to ones that ensnared his father.
"How ironic is that," Mike Sterling said. "I've been pretty much doing that for 15 years. And I could've helped my dad avoid this." Daily Press, Newport News, Va.
Thursday, December 13, 2007
Business Toolbox: Wild Catch analysis
Prices of white fish, halibut probably to rise
Your prices on both ends of the white fish price spectrum will increase next year because of significant reductions in fishermen’s catches.
Over the past week, two fishery management bodies have indicated some reductions will occur based on recommendations by biologists.
Alaska is the largest supplier of seafood in the nation, largely because of huge catches of pollock in the Bering Sea. The governing agency the North Pacific Fishery Management Council has, since its inception three decades ago, always issued very conservative catch allocations based upon scientific recommendations.
With the decline of Atlantic cod, pollock has become the generic “white fish” on the North American market today.
Biologists noted a reduction of pollock populations in their usual ranges earlier this year, and recommended that the total allowable catch be cut. The council followed the recommendation and cut the 2008 allowable catch by 28 percent.
That means the “white fish” found in many applications fish sticks, fish sandwiches, imitation crab, etc. will cost more.
Fishermen and biologists see this reduction as temporary, part of a cycle that pollock populations undergo. In addition, pollock stocks have migrated north and west and many have entered Russian waters. U.S. fishermen last saw this phenomenon in the late ‘80s.
The Russians this week announced significant increases in the allowable catch of pollock on its side of the Bering Sea. However, Russian pollock doesn’t often enter the higher-priced product streams that end up on tables or as takeout in North America.
Meanwhile, on the other end of the price spectrum, the price of Pacific halibut will increase, if the International Pacific Halibut Commission accepts recommendations from its biologists, which will reduce the total catch in 2008 to 9 percent.
Whether consumers will accept a higher price or vote with their dollars for other seafood remains to be seen. Halibut has disappeared in some retail fish markets because of price resistance. However, the restaurant trade has picked up extra supply and stoked demand.
Biologists have recommended a reduction of 9 percent in the total catch off Alaska, the Pacific Northwest and British Columbia. The commission is an international body managing stocks off the west coasts of both countries.
In the case of halibut, the reduction is largely because of a change in statistics. Biologists decided they had underestimated the catch off British Columbia, and southeast and central Alaska, while overestimating the catch off western Alaska.
The new catch recommendations are meant to bring catch rates nearer to what statistical models indicate.
"Now I can wake up in the morning and say hey you know the day is not all that bad," said Bari.The halibut commission will discuss the recommendations in January. The North Pacific Fishery Management Council’s actions must be approved by the U.S. secretary of commerce. Don McManman
It's estimated that about 15 percent of Americans are suffering with major depression, and it can be debilitating. Doctors say while the fatty acids look promising it could be years before it's recommended for depression. CBS 3, Philadelphia
Business Toolbox: Sustainability
Dutch to sell only sustainable seafood
From 2011, Dutch supermarkets will only sell fish from sustainable stocks that is caught according to approved methods, the national food bureau CBL said on Tuesday.
According to news agency ANP, several supermarkets are already buying fish from durable stocks.
Albert Heijn has an agreement with the World Nature Fund that it will have at least 10 species of ‘durable’ fish available in its stores from Dec. 31. The Dirk van den Broek stores have stopped selling threatened cod and swordfish and the Jumbo chain no longer stocks whiting or swordfish, ANP says. (Editor’s note: Pacific whiting caught off the Northwest and British Columbia coasts is sustainable.)
The CBL announcement prompted environmental group Greenpeace to stage a protest against the supermarket chain C1000. Greenpeace claims half the fish sold at C1000 stores are threatened species.
Femke Nagel from Greenpeace Netherlands told ANP that it is a scandal that C1000 still sells fish from depleted stocks while other supermarkets have already taken action. 'They even advise their customers to eat swordfish at Christmas,' she said. Netting swordfish also catches threatened sharks, albatross and turtles. -- DutchNews.nl, Netherlands
Business Toolbox: Your business associates
Sounded good - too good to be true
GLOUCESTER It all must have sounded so good to George Sterling.
A man claiming to be a big-shot Georgia deal maker with a plan to consolidate a string of independent seafood companies wanted to buy Sterling's business, Gloucester Seafood.
Sterling was 61 and after a life on the water he was ready to cash in. After selling the land and business he would still collect a paycheck for the next four years as a consultant during a transition period.
Sterling was a lifelong Gloucester resident he lived a mile from where he grew up and former county supervisor whose Gloucester Seafood plant sat on an acre on picturesque Aberdeen Creek off the York River.
Sterling, his friends, a family member and a commonwealth's attorney say, apparently never saw a con coming. It was a con that would quickly unravel and end up with lawyers sparring over the remaining scraps of a once-thriving seafood plant.
Three years later, Sterling is dead, the Georgia businessman, Clifton Odell Boyd Jr., ended up doing a short stretch behind bars and Sterling's estate is on the hook for nearly $1.2 million for failing to make any payments to a lender. Today, the Gloucester Seafood plant goes up for auction on the steps of the Gloucester County Courthouse to pay off a note Sterling co-signed.
It's a complex, cautionary tale illuminating the sub-prime commercial lending industry and the pitfalls of business deals consummated without sound legal advice.
In late 2003, Boyd had approached Sterling about buying Gloucester Seafood, according to court documents and people familiar with the business deal. Boyd, who is black, told Sterling he had money and connections in the financial world.
He was looking for businesses that were underachieving so he could buy them and make money off them. Boyd's business plan was to consolidate and revive seafood plants along the mid-Atlantic coast by winning government contracts weighted toward minority-owned businesses.
Boyd looked the part of a successful businessman, said Mike Sterling, George Sterling's 37-year-old son.
"On the surface at least it looked like he had adequate resources," Mike Sterling said. "Not every day in the seafood business a guy rolls up in a suit and a (GMC Yukon) and says, 'I have money.' That sounds like a good deal for a guy that's 60 years old standing on the back of a fish truck or crab truck in 90-degree heat. And that's my dad."
Hale Delavan, a Norfolk businessman who coincidentally bumped into Boyd during another business transaction involving a Richmond funeral home, saw Boyd's business plan. He thought it made sense, he said.
Boyd, who was later convicted in Gloucester Circuit Court of one count of obtaining real estate under false pretenses, said in a telephone interview that he is no con man. Boyd had formed a corporation, Viking Foods, to buy the stock in privately held Gloucester Seafood from Sterling.
On July 8, 2004, Boyd and Sterling co-signed a deed of trust from a Washington, D.C.-area commercial lender, Meadow Financial, for $380,000 at 18 percent interest. Boyd said he got the money from Meadow Financial and had paid off two banks that Sterling owed money to when Sterling asked for another $50,000. That request came after Sterling had seen an appraisal of the property that came in higher than expected, Boyd said.
"That left me in a position that I didn't have enough to pay the stock," Boyd said. Sterling "wanted the property back and I couldn't give it back to him because I had debt on it."
When the deal fell through, Boyd moved to Chesapeake where his parents live.
"The remaining money I kept and to be honest with you, Meadow Financial entrusted me to keep it," Boyd said.
Walter Jackson, a Gloucester appraiser and longtime friend of Sterling, said Sterling had been asking him questions about refinancing leading up to the deal.
"I knew something was up," Jackson said. After speaking with Boyd, who wanted Jackson to appraise the property, "I told George, 'Something's wrong here,'" Jackson said. "I just didn't feel good about it."
In September 2005, a month after Sterling died of cancer, Delavan reached an agreement with Sterling's estate to take over operation of Gloucester Seafood. The business was subsequently moved Delavan is still operating it and Sterling's estate never made a payment on the note, going into default.
By that time, Boyd was in Gloucester Circuit Court after being indicted on a litany of charges, including writing bad checks, forgery and obtaining money under false pretenses. He pleaded guilty to one count of fraud, according to court records. A judge handed down a 20-year prison sentence, but suspended it provided Boyd reimburses the Sterling estate $80,000.
Boyd maintains he never intended to defraud anyone.
"I didn't go into business to destroy it, I went into business to resurrect it," he said. Sterling "changed the deal. You can't change the deal at the 11th hour."
Nevertheless, Boyd missed his first payment to Sterling's estate; he said he was seven days late but there was no grace period. In February 2006, he was jailed briefly in the Atlanta area on a probation violation. But he was released when he came up with the money all $87,000 to pay off his debt to the Sterling estate.
Boyd is vague about the source of the money, saying he has a business partner who provided a portion of it.
Gloucester Commonwealth's Attorney Bob Hicks believes Sterling made one mistake.
"If he had gone to an attorney, they never would have let him sign the stuff he signed," Hicks said.
Mike Sterling thinks his dad trusted the people and companies involved in the deal. Those include, Boyd, Meadow Financial and a lawyer, George Shapiro, who represented Meadow Financial and also Boyd and Sterling, according to court documents.
Shapiro did not return phone calls seeking comment.
"Bad things can happen to good people and the day of placing trust in people when it's a sizable transaction is long gone," Mike Sterling said. "And now you have to be skeptical, unfortunately, because that's where society has steered us toward. Now a lot of verbal agreements and a handshake don't mean anything."
Mike Sterling is a financial planner in Raleigh, N.C., who advises clients on matters similar to ones that ensnared his father.
"How ironic is that," Mike Sterling said. "I've been pretty much doing that for 15 years. And I could've helped my dad avoid this." Daily Press, Newport News, Va.
Friday, December 14, 2007
Business Toolbox: Your supply
EU fishery management = incompetence
(This is long, but it’s a good read editor)
IN RATIONAL systems of government, officials do not enjoy hearing that one of their policies is a shambles. Yet that is what happened when the Court of Auditors recently declared that the European Union's common fisheries policy (CFP), under which the European Commission sets maximum allowable catches, does not work.
The auditors found that the actual level of catches is “unknown”, thanks to gaps, errors and “mis-statements” (ie, fibs) in data sent to Brussels by national governments. Most rule-breakers are not caught; those caught are seldom punished; and the few who are punished face trifling fines. Schemes to reduce overcapacity in fishing fleets have been subverted. This has severe effects. A survey of the north-east Atlantic found 81% of fish stocks to be dangerously over-exploited.
So why does the commission welcome this damning report? Because enforcing the CFP is largely a job for national governments. That turns the report into ammunition in a fight between Brussels and national capitals over who is to blame.
One commission official insists that “on controls, it is the member states' fault.” The list of cheats features Italy (“really bad”), Poland (“bad”) and Spain (“a bad reputation round the world, for hidden compartments, illegal nets, the lot”).
It also includes those who most criticise the CFP, such as the Dutch and British (Scotland was notorious for “black” landings, but has improved after nasty scandals). It is the same with over-fishing. Each autumn the commission proposes new limits. But the actual quotas are fixed every Christmas by national ministers in a sleepless, two-day marathon.
The annual fisheries council (this year's begins on December 17th) is described by one official as “the sickest thing about the CFP”. It even has its own, squalid traditions.
Before the council, the commission proposes quotas that are larger than those recommended by its scientific advisers. National ministers then expand the quotas once again. In recent years, the final numbers have been 50% higher than the scientists advised. And then national fishing fleets break even these higher quotas.
To most Eurocrats, the problem is selfish national interests, and the solution is tougher EU-wide controls. The CFP may be flawed, but if countries parceled out the fish among themselves there would be none left, says one official. “We'd be discussing where to import fish from.” To Eurosceptics, the blame rests with the EU: the CFP has forfeited the confidence of fishermen and the public (who are disgusted that quotas force fishermen to chuck dead fish back into the sea). Their answer is to keep Brussels out. British sceptics even murmur, eyes a-gleam, about Royal Navy warships patrolling to keep out foreign interlopers. (They are less good at explaining how British fishermen could stop the neighbours from over-fishing in non-British waters.)
National governments like to spread the blame around too. Some even admit that their fishermen cheat. A 2004 report by the British prime minister's strategy unit called low levels of compliance in the industry “endemic”. But the prize for unintentional comedy goes to France, whose officials once blamed the fish for a huge court fine slapped on French authorities for allowing illegal landings. (The ploy turned on a daring, if grammatically correct, use of reflexive verbs, so that a ministerial statement blamed undersized hake that se pêchaient et se vendaient, suggesting the fish had fished and sold themselves.)
Apart from the fish-blaming French, everybody has a point. The behaviour of national governments is simply the tragedy of the commons writ large. One official admits that discarding dead cod because they breach quotas is “obscene”.
The commission is studying the policy of Norway, where all fish must be landed, and over-quota fish are bought by the state for a modest sum. Clever nets could help in southerly waters, where dozens of species swim together. Officials also grumble about hypocrisy: fishermen quietly discard lots of fish so as to pack their holds only with the most valuable. Many fishermen cheat because they think the scientists are wrong, or because everyone else is, or because they cannot make a living otherwise.
The force of the market
In the end, though, arguments about how to control national fishing fleets miss the biggest point. A bolder reform would create a pan-European market in fishing rights, in which efficient skippers could buy, sell and rent tradable quotas (used in places like New Zealand, Alaska, and also as domestic policy tools in parts of Europe). The resulting Euro-fleet would be smaller and easier to contain. It would also need fewer controls, as owners of big expensive boats have more incentive to preserve stocks.
A Spanish official says that his country, with a competitive fishing industry, would support a single European market, at least for offshore fleets. The Dutch might be interested. Unfortunately, that is about it. Even the British are protectionist about fish, forcing foreigners who want to buy their quotas to maintain a lifetime “economic link” with Britain by hiring British crews, or landing fish in British ports.
Politicians' heads tell them that fishing accounts for less than 1% of the EU's economy. Their hearts say it is a brave, dangerous business, bringing life to isolated ports where other jobs are hard to come by. Emotion helps to explain a (mad) founding principle of the CFP: “relative stability”. This means that the share of fish stocks doled out to each country should be stable in relative terms, so that no national fleet loses ground to any other. This rigidity has blocked serious consolidation, as member countries cling to every last quota they can get.
Europeans need to stop blaming each other for the failures of the current CFP. Instead, they should ponder the example of one of the EU's few uncontested triumphs, the single market, and apply its lessons to the seas. That would be rational. It might even be good for the fish. The Economist
Business Toolbox: Law and order
Pirates attack... for fish
Pirates attacked the captain and five crew members of a fishing vessel in Suriname waters around 6 pm on Sunday and carted off over $1M worth of fish even as a gang of sea bandits was busted in that country last week.
Owner of the boat, Badrudeen Khan of Mahaica told Stabroek News that five masked pirates, carrying three guns and cutlasses "broadsided" the captain, Mickey and a crew member to prevent them from looking at their faces.
He said his men were about 16 miles from the Coroni shore and were cooking when they saw a boat approaching at a slow rate. He said they did not become suspicious as they thought the men were fishermen.
"But when the pirates reach closer they started to fire several shots and they ordered the crew to lie on the ice box. Then they tell them to get up and go in the fish pen," he related.
After that, Khan said the pirates removed two of the workers and held them at gunpoint while ordering them to discharge the fish into their boat. He said it took nearly two hours as the two men had to transfer "700 trout, 50 snapper and over 200 mackerel and king fish."
Business Toolbox: Your customers' health
Massachusetts set to release fresh water mercury advisory
Underscoring a growing concern about mercury poisoning, the state Department of Public Health is preparing this week to release 13 new fish consumption advisories, a sign that mercury contamination in bodies of water may be worsening across the state.
Primarily a residual effect of industrial plants in the Midwest, the mercury has tainted lakes, rivers, streams, and ponds in virtually every part of the state. Pregnant women and small children are particularly at risk of neurological damage from eating certain types of freshwater fish from these areas, say state health officials.
In areas northwest of Boston, several bodies of water already have the consumption advisories, a situation that spurred a public forum this week in Groton. Part of the discussion at the forum centered on ways area residents can help curb mercury emissions by avoiding throwing away products that contain mercury - thermometers, button cell batteries, fluorescent lights, and the like - into the trash. Instead, consumers are encouraged to refrain from buying such products or to take them to local transfer stations, where municipalities often have mercury disposal programs in place.
Todd Dresser, an environmental scientist invited to speak at the forum, said last week that local disposal of items containing mercury represents a small part of the equation in terms of mercury emissions into the environment. But every little bit helps mitigate further pollution, he said.
"There's certainly a local component to it," said Dresser. "It's a challenge because it's a global issue, and people get overwhelmed by it. The point is, mercury is a big problem, but there are local impacts we should take notice of."
When incinerated at a solid waste recycling facility, mercury from thermometers and fluorescent lights escapes into the atmosphere and enters lakes and ponds through rainfall, Dresser said. Once the mercury is in the water, plankton absorbs it, he said. "It goes right into the food chain."
But the deeper problem is smoke and smog from incinerators in the Ohio Valley area, whose residue blows east along the jet stream and into Massachusetts, he said.
That issue has led to a lawsuit by 16 states, including Massachusetts and New Hampshire, which are seeking to force the US Environmental Protection Agency to crack down more forcefully on mercury emissions, said Dresser. Boston Globe
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